Valve Adjustment for Honda CBR600F4i, Not for the Novice

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(с) elskipador, 08-13-2004 [1]

earlier this week i adjusted alan, scorpio6, valves. the ride in question is a f4i with 54k on the clock. its had 1 valve adjustment in those 54k. the week earlier alan had me sync the throttle bodies @ the TMP tech-day. his #2 cylinder had very low intake pressure, under 10 kpa. this pointed to out of spec valves. a week later we met and adjusted them. i had just gotten a new digi and decided i’d put it to good use.

  1. this is not for beginners!! the shim-under-bucket is the most difficult style of valve the japanese use. this is for those that have done either over-bucket or tappet style before. that said, i expect you yo know how to remove plastic and understand the term «reinstall» means the doing the opposite of how YOU took it apart
  2. if you fuck it up... its your fault! i warned you.
  3. save the drinks for after
  4. enjoy

1st remove the lowers and seat. then remove the front tank bolts and loosen the rear, prop up the tank
frontal view
unplug IAT sensor. located on the top of the airbox
this is what you’ll be looking @ after you remove the airbox top and side skirts
remove the 6 screw that hold the velocity stacks and air box on
look @ this dirty fi unit!! that’ll need sum cleanin'
remove the throttle cables
unplug coil harness from the left side of the main wiring harness
remove ignition cap/coils from the sparkplugs
the next view
next remove the «timing inspection cap» on the right side of the motor
ther is supposed to be an o-ring sealing this cover. notice its missing...
after removing the 3 bolts that hold on the valve cover and valve cover along with the 4 screws that hold on the throttle bodies this is what you’ll be looking @
rotate the motor til the line next to the «T» lines up with the notch in the case. this should be TDC for #1, the cam lobes face away from each other. if not rotate 360
you’re now ready to measure the intake clearances on #1 & #3
      spec is .20 +/- .03mm
now measure the exhaust clearances on #1 & #2
      spec is .28 +/- .03mm
its a tight fit, but can be done. if you want more room remove the radiator

when checking the clearances you want the feeler to slide in, but to have a slight amount of drag.

once you’ve checked those valves rotate the motor 180 and check the intakes on #4 & #2 along with the exhaust on #4 & #3

make a chart to record all the different valves' measurements
it’ll look something like this when you’re done with the check
BEFORE you loosen the cam holder bolts remove the CCT! use an extension to go through the frame and loosen the lower CCT bolt
inside view
heres what you do with the stock CCT
once you have recorded your out of spec valves its time to remove the cams. loosen the bolts in the #'red order stamped on the cam holder
once you remove all the bolts wiggle the holder loose. BE GENTLE!!! i cannot stress this enough!!! also be careful not to drop tha copper washers that seal the bolts around the plug holes
so you’ve got the cam holder off. this is your view
@ this point we’ll actually be close to doing the adjustment. remove 1 of the cams. i usually start with the exhaust, but its your choice. be carful with the cam!!!! do not dent, ding, drop, etc...
these are the valve buckets that are above the shims to actually adjust the clearances. DO NOT mix up the buckets!!!! if you do you’ll have to put the cams back in and start over. i like to remove them 1 @ a time
next remove 1 of the buckets with a magnetic pick-up tool
remove the bucket from the motor bay
use the magnetic tool to get the shim from the roof of the bucket
measure the shim thickness with a micrometer
like so

determine the size of the new shim


A=new shim thickness
B=recorded valve clearance
C=specified valve clearance
D=old shim thickness
them get the shim out of your collection
put the new shim on top of the valve stem and replace the bucket and repeat with the other 7 exhaust valves. then replace the exhaust cam
once thats done remove the intake cam and repeat all the shim measuring and replacing on the intake valves
once you’ve replaced the shims and reinstalled the intake cam your ready to make sure the factory marks line up. most japanese sportbikes are made to that when the marks on the cams line up with the head the timing is set properly
torque the cam holder to factory spec 12 N-m, in order
replace valve cover and torque to factory spec, 10 N-m
replace timing cover, with the o-ring!!!
torque timing cover to spec, 18 N-m
replace the shitass OEM CCT with the APE 1
once the new CCT is in place set the CC tension
now that you’ve got that done you’re ready to reinstall the plug, cap/coils, and the MAP sensor and IAT for the throttle boddies sync
once the bike is up to temp the gauges will probably look something like this... fooked
after the sync it should look more like this

after that you’re pretty much done. put the aibox and sensors back together, reinstall the box, stacks, filter, top, tank, plastic, seat and go for a damn ride.